Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup requires cautious preparation and a lot of work. In most cases, you will need to do three types of jobs: framing walls, installing the pipes, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to choose the kind of shower that you want to set up. It is necessary to determine whether the selected read this shower is capable of handling specific systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower systems nowadays are developed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as kept warm water and cold mains).
It is also essential to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature level can be adjusted by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and very simple to set up. However, although the pipe connection is easy, it is easily removed. Furthermore, it is bothersome to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is an extremely inexpensive choice and no extra plumbing is included. However, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with bothersome temperature level control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall system and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs https://canvas.hms.harvard.edu/eportfolios/641/home/what-causes-blocked-drains-in-your-plumbing-system (in more expensive showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the previously discussed mixers. They also require additional plumbing of hot and cold supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the cold and hot water supplies are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. Among the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of convenient temperature level control. However, it is the most expensive of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing an effective electrical pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water warmed directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature level and pressure to be changed via a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they remain unaffected by other taps in other places in usage within the family. A significant downside of electrical showers is that the control knob just enables the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this issue is dealt with in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to set up, the shower head need to either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work included. In addition, the drainage system to eliminate the waste water will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise require to be considered if an immediate or electrical shower system is being installed.
Use the guideline guide provided with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some may require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there need to be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water tank can be raised to a greater height (often just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support underneath it-- potentially composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this choice, the main and circulation pipelines will likewise have to be raised to satisfy the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it needs to be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to maintain maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. In addition, by reducing using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water supply. You can achieve this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or ignoring regional code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipe substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when installing them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall remains in place.
# Not effectively lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, constantly run the outside hose pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.